The judge has a solera. José Carlos Capel has been devoted to gastronomic critique IN the country for 31 years. "Every Week I send an article. I've never failed. Even that time I was in the hospital for a month, "he presumes. He Went to eat at Arzak in 1980, lived the phenomenon of Ferran Adrià since his birth, the boom of the Tecnococina... "And today I get excited with the simplest, as with a well fried egg, with the whole yolk, small and round, with truffle streaked above; or with potatoes Revolconas chafadas with the fork and bits of bacon. " It Is considered an influencer at its 70 years. "If I publish something complimentary from a restaurant, I fill it," he warns. And deplores the lack of rigor of bloggers and Pseudocríticos in the era of the Posttruth. "The frivolity is Prima. One takes and raises a photo to Instagram with ' how good is this croissant '... And, my mother, the one who bundles up with the croissant. And It's people who think without knowledge. Mine is a tremendously rigorous research work, but it doesn't always have the same impact. "
When you go to a restaurant with fake name ("so that the chef does not make specific purchases for my visit") and refuses any invitation ("Those who say about a site where they have not paid, they don't criticize, they just return the favor: it's the law of stomachs to Gradecidos "). It Clarifies that it spends between 1,000 and 1,500 euros per month in eating out, "The price of my freedom." And He's not shaking his pulse for negative reviews. "No one ever complains to me. They Don't dare. But years ago, I did a hard review to a restaurant in Galicia that turned out to be a narco in the area. He called me and said, ' You and your family are going to remember me. '
In Spite of everything, it had never been seen in this situation: a table brimming with biscuits, potato-sacks, buns and hooks. Start the tasting.
Best Chocolate Biscuit
The second choice of the Americans is the first of the judge. Tip: Mójala in milk. "The key to the success of confectionery is to get the balance between the sweet and the salty," judges José Carlos Capel, greedy but cautious: "Eat and dine out of the house every day. And I'm skinny, right? I'm translating: I've been on a diet for 30 years. However, it launches to the tasting of the cookies chocolateadas with enthusiasm and curiosity. "Oops, these end up getting tired, the feeling of sweet is very flat... There are No nuances, "he says about some options. "Chocolate without quality" and "artificial aftertaste" are other arguments on which it bases its sieve. Until, voila, he finds his winner among the sugary arsenal.
A round set. Chips Ahoy! It's the second best-selling cookie in AMERICA and the choice of our examiner. "I like that taste of cereal. You Notice the salt point, the sugar, the harmonies... Is complex. " In a worthy second place, the chocolate Prince, "of pleasant taste, but with less hook." And, yes, it is definitely a culinary success to dip them in milk or hot tea. This was documented by British chef Heston Blumenthal, owner of the revolutionary The Fat Duck (three Michelin stars), on the TV show he had on Channel 4: With leading-edge technology connected to his nose, he measured the aromas of two chocolate biscuits, One submerged in the infusion and another not, and it turned out that the moist gave off much more potent sensations.
Best Stuffed Cupcake
In the opinion of the critic, no stuffed bun has been designed for the adult palate, but for the children, who consume them in Spain up to three times a week.
Simplicity Is imposed in the choice of the critic, which almost gives a syncope when we invite you to try everything for the second time. "This tastes like cologne!"
Tension in the environment. Capel wants to leave this category deserted. No supermarket-stuffed bun seems to convince him. We urge You to a second round. Twist the gesture. "I Don't like it, it has many essences, I notice a taste of Cologne, it is cloying, how many artificial aromas, for God...", are some of the pearls that looses during which surely is the most fateful tasting of his life. In the judgment of the critic, none of these formulas have been designed for the adult palate, but to please the kids. It is Not misguided: in Spain, children consume industrial buns more than three times a week, according to the I Study of Health and Well-Being in Childhood of the DKV Institute of Healthy Living, in collaboration with the Hospital Sant Joan de Déu, in Barcelona.
In industrial pastries, less is more. Bimbo stuffed with cocoa and hazelnuts, Red Circle, is done with victory. "We appreciate the simplicity," he dictates. "It Is the least disfigured formula and therefore the easiest to understand: a biscuit and its cream. Although the coverage still seems too greasy... ". Products like Tigretón, the Pink Panther, Bollycao or the same Red Circle, are a source of nostalgia for somethings and thirty, who review packaging and recipe changes in Forums and Facebook pages. A recent milestone for this community? The Pink Panther Doughnut, which went on sale in 2017 and that Capel prefers not to know more details...
Best Salty Snack
Jennifer Lawrence's favorite is also that of Capel, who appreciates that she knows something familiar.
The scientist Steven A. Witherly, author of the book Why humans like junk food, highlights an essential feature of savoury snacks that makes us love them even more: the way the ground flour that covers each chip stain Our fingers. "By sucking them, we eat it in a pure state, which sends a powerful signal to the brain," says The New York Times. Capel must be immune to this spark, because almost all the options we offer him seem terrible.
"Is there any recognizable flavor there?" It'S What you ask with every mouthful until you finally get the positive answer. "Doritos know corn and spices." Of the famous nachos, it also praises character and personality. His story is full of curiosities. In 1992, the brand reformulated its recipe to confer a more natural cheese flavor and eliminate "breath to Doritos", a incordioso aftertaste that clung to the diner after each ingestion. Much earlier, less badly, that Jennifer Lawrence stained several of his dresses during the filming of the Great American Scam (2014) with the typical orange powder that come off, as he has confessed the costume designer of the Movie a Vanity Fair: " Let's Say The actress is not against Doritos... "
Neither the corn oil nor its amount of salt tarnishes the victory of the most artisanal option. "None is fried in olive oil," laments our judge after testing all of a selection of grocery bags of 1.80 euros or less. "Those I consume are San Nicasio", Gourmet category and almost double the price. But What about the low costrange? In general, little value, according to the food critic ditch: Some, being "aromatized in excess with pork fat" (What do you think you eat when you buy a variety of ham?); Others, by a inane profile, off, with nothing especially bad (or good) to highlight. And among so much laziness, the surprise looms...
"These remind me of the churrero potatoes." It Is The phrase that Capel grants the victory to Potatoes Santa Ana, of the company PepsiCo Foods. Crispy, clean but sharp-tasting, golden in point, with an artisan imprint... And only three ingredients: oil (corn, which dietitians-nutritionists do not consider as good as olive, but still healthy), potatoes and salt. The latter, in a negligible quantity (1, 3/100 grams, the mean value of the whole of the tasting). Result for the palate: there is no tongue that is not KO after a prolonged intake.
The Game of textures and contrast of flavors, keys to decide this category that almost ends in a draw. This is How a battle of waffles is fought.
Studies elucidate that addiction-like behavior regulates our relationship with some foods, especially with fats and sugars. Hormones and their reward system are to blame (amen to our genetics, which pushes us towards the sweet for a matter of survival). With The chocolates, this kind of physiological slab becomes more evident, even for Capel, who until now seemed immune to the siren chants of the processed snacks . "It'S hard to stop eating It...", says the food critic about the winning snack. Of Course, that does not happen to everyone, there are some who scare him, "basically, for the little category of chocolate and a taste cloying." A hint: The chocolates with toffee among its ingredients do not leave very well.
Those that carry toffee among their ingredients do not leave very well. Kit Kat and Kinder Bueno are disputed the gold until the last moment, for its festival of contrasts.
That do work. But if Kinder Bueno is made with gold (until the last moment, Kit Kat was at his heels the heels, "for the balance between the waffle and the Chocolate"), is for the successful choreography of textures and flavors. "The Cream of the filling, the intermediate biscuit and the chocolate from the outside give a tremendous game", values the expert, who also flatters its strong flavor to peanut and the quality of the chocolate. The creature belongs to the Ferrero company (yes, that of the Bonbons), whose label Kinder fulfilled half a century last year with the slogan "The pleasure, in its just measure", of which it is deduced a waiver to the launching of the chocolate in giant version for shops of airport. Sigh of widespread relief (and of Capel, too).
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